Most golfers buying their first simulator buy a full mat without knowing that hitting strips are an option. For a permanent build, a hitting strip recessed into a proper floor is often the better choice — more realistic, more durable, and more flexible for left and right-handed players. For a first build or portable setup, a full mat is simpler and more practical. Here's how to decide.
What each one actually is
A full hitting mat is a single piece — typically 4×5 ft to 4×9 ft — that you both stand on and hit from. The whole surface is turf. You place it on your floor and hit. Simple.
A hitting strip is a narrow performance surface — typically 12 inches wide by 36–48 inches long — that sits in the centre of a larger stance area. Your feet go on the stance mat or surrounding floor. The ball goes on the hitting strip. You replace just the strip when it wears, not the whole surface.
Full mat vs hitting strip — side by side
| Factor | Full mat | Hitting strip |
|---|---|---|
| Setup complexity | Drop and go | Requires stance mat or built floor |
| Total cost | $250–$600 all-in | $80–$200 strip + $100–$400 stance area |
| Longevity | Whole mat wears in one spot | Replace only the worn strip |
| Floor level | Raised — you step up onto it | Can be recessed flush with floor |
| Putting | Step off mat to putt | Continuous surface — putt naturally |
| Left/right-handed use | Offset hitting zone limits flexibility | Centred strip works for both |
| Portability | Moveable — can use outdoors | Fixed to floor or stance mat |
| Best for | First builds, rental spaces, portable | Permanent dedicated rooms |
The case for a full mat
A full mat is the right choice for most first-time builders and anyone without a dedicated permanent space. You don't need to build a subfloor, cut anything, or figure out how a hitting strip integrates with your room. You buy it, place it, and hit. If you move the simulator or reconfigure the space, the mat comes with you.
Country Club Elite is the most popular full mat choice for home simulators. It handles irons, wedges, and driver equally well, accepts real tees, and its dense nylon surface gives honest shot feedback. At around $400 for a 5×5 ft, it's a one-and-done purchase for most golfers.
The case for a hitting strip
A hitting strip becomes the better choice when you're building a permanent dedicated simulator room and want it to feel and look right. The main advantages:
Flush floor. A hitting strip recessed into your subfloor or set into a foam tile system sits level with the surrounding surface. There's no step up, no platform, no awkward transition. You walk into the bay and hit. It looks professional and feels natural.
Continuous putting surface. With a flush strip setup, you can putt from the mat directly to the screen without stepping off a raised platform. For simulator play this matters — it makes the putting experience significantly more realistic.
Centred hitting position. A hitting strip sits in the middle of your stance area, which means left and right-handed players can both use the same hitting position without repositioning anything.
Long-term cost. A quality hitting strip ($120–$200) lasts 2–3 years of regular use. When it wears, you replace just the strip. A full mat that wears through the hitting zone needs full replacement.
The DIY factor
The catch with hitting strips is that you need something for them to sit in or on. The most common approaches:
- Set into foam tiles — interlock 1" foam tiles across the bay, cut out a hitting strip-sized section, drop the strip in flush. Most accessible DIY option, common in garage builds.
- Set into a built subfloor — frame a plywood platform the depth of your hitting strip, cover with turf, recess the strip flush. The most professional result, requires more work.
- Sit on a stance mat — place the hitting strip adjacent to a separate stance mat. Quickest setup, but creates a raised edge between the two surfaces.
If you're not comfortable with basic DIY — measuring, cutting foam, levelling surfaces — start with a full mat. The flush floor look isn't worth a poor installation.
Which monitors work with each
Both full mats and hitting strips work with all monitor types. The key consideration is height matching — a side-mounted camera monitor (SkyTrak Plus, Bushnell Launch Pro) needs to sit level with the ball. If your hitting strip is recessed flush with a foam tile floor, a floor-placed monitor sits correctly. If your full mat raises the hitting surface 1.5–2 inches off the floor, your monitor needs to be elevated to match.
Frequently asked questions
- Can I use a hitting strip without a dedicated subfloor?
- Yes — the simplest approach is to lay the hitting strip on top of a rubber stance mat or foam tiles with the edges butting up. It creates a slight raised edge between the surfaces but works fine for hitting. Most golfers start this way and upgrade to a flush setup later if they want it.
- What size hitting strip do I need?
- Standard strips are 12 inches wide. Length varies — 36 inches is sufficient for most golfers, 48 inches gives more comfort especially for taller players with wider stances. For overhead monitors (Uneekor) with larger hitting zones, confirm the strip width covers the monitor's tracking area.
- Do hitting strips accept real tees?
- It depends on the strip. Country Club Elite strips accept real tees. Fiberbuilt strips accept real tees. Some softer foam-based strips (Holy Grail, Carl's Divot) don't — you need a rubber tee or a Birtee alternative. Check before buying if real tee use matters to you.
- My mat slides on the concrete floor. What should I do?
- A non-slip rubber underlay under the mat solves this. Alternatively, carpet tape around the edges holds it in place. Some mats (Country Club Elite in particular) are known to slide without securing — it's a common issue on smooth concrete and worth addressing before your first session.
We've done the research. Here are our recommendations by room size and budget.